Petra: The eternal and unforgettable pink city of Nabateans

Petra Essence

There is an image for those who walk in the forties and we love movies that it has recorded in our minds:  Indiana Jones riding slowly and in an awesome way on a black Arab steed, throgh a mysterious and tall walls of  pink stone, just to reach the most divine of visions: the monumental entrance of a temple, a majestic door that takes your breath away . . .
That is how the world rediscovered Petra. The finding of Indy, this unveiled beauty that left him stunned, is one of the best examples that films could became real life.
Waking the gorgeous Siq and then find after a short stretch, a wonder that causes a huge admiration, is one of the best experiences that I can recommend to travelers.
Your pulse acelerates, adrenaline for the discovery overwhelms you and eyes have to adjust to the sudden brightness that radiates the most famous and spectacular building that Petra Archaeological Park has: The Treasure also known as Al Khazneh.

Petra park is located at the heart of the valley of Wadi Musa or Valley of Moses. In the hills of the valley is where stands the city of Petra with excellent hotels, typical restaurants, souvenir shops and a landscape of barren hills and rugged as few in the world. . .
Enter into Petra is following the ancient path of the river, the same river that built the Siq and the Nabateans worked hard to dominate and force it to protect their city.
Petra map gives an idea of  the river path, which is neither more nor less, the visitor road. . .

The must do n° 1 : enter to the Siq.

At the entrance to the park where you buy the tickets, there are shops selling all kind of hats: made of straw or leather (to have Indy style), pashminas, scarves, hats, biscuits, mineral water and soft drinks, books, postcards, ice cream. . .
But the best thing is the Archaeological Park map that you could find near the entrance to the Visitor Center on the right hand, facing the checkpoint in the wall of the museum of Petra. This gives you an idea of the route of the valley and the main points with the most outstanding monuments.
From the entrance door, (which is accessed after passing through security scanners bags and other belongings) to the mouth of the Siq, you have to walk about 300 meters. Then the visitor will notice that there are two paths: one for pedestrians and one for carriages and horses. There is the possibility to start the adventure of Petra: you can use a carriage of two people with a guide leading the horse or (for more adventurer guys) riding a horse or a donkey. The carriage cost per person is around 10 or 12 dinars.
The carriage can enter the Siq and walk it all the way to the Treasury, while the horse or donkey is only allowed until the start of the gorge.
Bewteen the park entrance and the gorge mouth, are a couple of interesting stops: Tomb of the Obelisk and ceremonial niches that have referential signs in English and Arabic to better understand their history and origin.
Before entering the gorge, there is a tourist police station in case you need any information.
If you enter before noon, it is possible that a pair of Roman centurions stop your way for an excellent photography only for a few coins to help them. Once you have permission to continue, the adventure begins. . .

The must do n° 2: The gorge or Siq of Petra

It was a surprise for me that to enter the Siq you must walk in a downward way; after our guide explanation is obviously why: the gorge is a natural formation made ​​by the waters and rains during ancient eras, which flows into the valley of Petra. It is the gateway to discover the wonders of the once pink city of the Nabataeans.
The throat deserves all your attention by itself because is a fantastic attraction: at times it is wide and suddenly is narrow at the point to has no more than 3 meters. The thousand and one shades of pink and earth tones can be discovered in the shadows or with the full sun. The contoured walls and the height that can be reached, sometimes huge, overwhelmed visitors in a good way.

The aqueduct carved by the Nabataeans can still be seen and touched. Figures that are close enough to elephants merged from the rose rock and salute you on the way; the old Roman road of stones can still transited and in the morning, street vendors, including children, will join your way to achieve the desired sale.
The echo of horse hoofs pulling carriages breaks the armony that soft breezes reach your hair and also, make an alert for the people walking the gorge to give way, especially in places of less space.

You can also find, not far from the Treasury, a couple of carved figures representing two traders of the Silk Road along the trail with their camels, on a larger scale than normal.

And after traveling on foot 2 km long, at your own rhythm (a normal walk takes about forty minutes), the Siq narrows, its walls stretch and after a bend, you could find at the end of the passage one of the most exciting views; a view adored by travelers from around the world: the Treasury.

 

 

 

The must seen n° 3: the Treasure.

The facade impresses because of the proportions (about 40 meters high by 28 wide) and  its own scenic effect; it has being carved out of the rock wall and stands in front of the exit of the Siq.
The place in which the traveler get out of the Siq is similar to a large stone patio. On the left there is an exit not walkable and you can only find a souvenir shop. To the right side, lies a short extension of the gorge that is the way to go to further explore the city. And in front of the visitor, the magnificence almost Greek Treasury.
Possibly the Treasury situation, has preserved it over the centuries, since it is protected from wind erosion. The Treasure is famous not only for the unique architecture, but because of the warm pink tones that made a fantastic contrast with the darker walls that extend around.

The facade has two parts: the bottom consists of 6 columns topped by a triangular pediment, the upper features a circular temple with a conical roof at its center, flanked by two rectangles topped by two semifrontones.
Images that once adorned it almost can not recreate but still they can be seen in the stone square pink bras on both sides who served as swings once upon a time for Nabataeans cavers.
Many theories have been put forward about why such a facade: it could have been a tomb, a royal mausoleum, or even a temple, the reality today is that the Treasury is just that: the world's most beautiful facade. Unlike Indy, who found here the entrance of the mythical mountain where the Holy Grail was kept, the Treasury is a wonder that with a little luck and if it is not closed the way, invites you to open the camera and admire the beauty of the veins of the mountain.
Bedouins in the past, have shot the dome of the temple thinking that  wealthy and precious thing were saved there, we now know that Petra is a gem in itself.
The routes of the carriages end there, under the shadow of the Treasury, but also, is the starting point for a brief tour on camel. At best, you can pay about 20 dinars for a ride on the camel.

 

The must seen n°4: The Theatre

On the right of the Treasury, you will find an extension of the Siq, which flares slowly, until forming a natural amphitheater. It is called the outer Siq. At the same time you pass by this site, you can see 17 tombs (there are 14 at the ground floor and 3 above). To the left are several tombs at different levels and with some interesting carvings, this stretch is known as the Street of Facades.
Going further, the Siq drawn width and longer and the old citadel of Petra appears in the valley.
The first thing we find is the theater, beautifully carved into the rock of Petra. It is known that it was built in the first century and consists of 33 rows of bleachers, some more worn than others, and had capacity for 3,000 spectators. Virtually no visit is allowed because it is very eroded.
Just behind the theater, there is a street with two important facts for the traveler. To the right, there are bathrooms for ladies and gentlemen, carved into the stone itself and admirably clean. They are to visit not only to meet the physiological needs of any traveler, but to appreciate the multicolored veins that the walls have and on the ceiling of the bathroom itself.
Very close, in a small tend selling crafts it is possible to discover with surprise a beautiful blonde woman that sells beautiful silver jewelry. She is Australian and she is based at the site, after marrying a Bedouin. Her work is really great and amazing life is documented in the book by herself.
In front of the bathrooms, there is a coffee shop with rustic roof where you can taste a delicious mint tea to encourage the spirit or a very strong Arabic coffee. Any of the two for just a dinar.

 

 The must do n°5: visiting The Royal Tombs

Almost opposite the Theatre, on the right wall of the outer Siq you have to look up to see another of the great wonders of Petra. Carved at a considerable height, the mountain hosts a number of tombs known as Royals, whose facades are as beautiful as the Treasury itself.

It can be accessed in two ways: through the stairs carved into the stone (they extend zigzagging elegantly to the portico of the Urn Tomb), or find a quite sandy path that guides you to the top; at the end of this path there is the wonderful wall containing the five main tombs.

The attraction is that once you're up, you can visit  and appreciate the fantastic colors and veins of the heart of the mountain and enjoy the air, the sun and an unique view of the valley of Petra.

You can start from the Urn Tomb, very beautiful with a large atrium and carved like a silk.

Then the Silk Tomb is marked by transverse veins of its facade and the Corinthian Tomb is next, very similar to the structure of the facade of the Treasury but very eroded because it is fully exposed to winds from the Valley. The Palace Tomb is the widest and the most carved with a series of half-columns on the second floor of its facade. 
Finally Florentinus Sextus's Tomb, a Saudi Roman proconsul of about 130 AD, closes the circuit on the heights of the Valley.

To move from one tomb to another, you have to be careful and go up and down to different levels of mountain passes. The courts of each tomb are large, but always watch where you step to avoid losing your balance or bend a foot. If you feel dizzy or lightheaded, is convenient stop half way and admire from a lower vantage point.

 

 

 The must do n°6:  walking The Lower City

At the north of the Theater, the outer Siq continues along through what was once the bed of the River Valley of Moses and then turn left: that's where the site starts concentrating the once Roman city of Petra.
The Colonnade Street with yet original some road sections, lets move the old city and stops at some ruins that retain parcially their former glory.
So you can see the Temple of the Winged Lions and the remains of the Monumental Gate. Once transferred the two gigantic columns, you can visit the Palace of Pharaoh's daughter, the only one in Petra which was built and carved into the pink sandstone of the Valley itself.

The must do n° 7: travelling to The Monastery

Known as the Deir in the original language, is along with the Treasury, the most emblematic building of Petra.
I could not get to, but friends who have completed the trip, have told me that the road is the most complicated of the Archaeological Park to follow. Part of the path is made with steeps and the other part consists of narrow passages. But the effort is definitely worth it.

Recommended in the area: Little Petra

If your local guide comment you about the possibility of touring the beginning of Wadi Musa area, go right away. Believe me, you won't regret because in that area is known as Little Petra; I particulary recommend it before visiting the main city.
Little Petra is an appetizer, an advance to see the carving of the Nabataeans. Unlike Petra the Great, its gorge is smaller but through it, you can explore the monuments and temples that such a place keeps.
You can even climb and explore a little more than Big Petra and is guarded by several Bedouin families offering good coffee and some crafts, plus the chance to get closer to the culture of their people.

 

Clothing Tips:
Woundering in Petra involves walking a lot just to discover it and enjoy. Bring a pair of comfortable shoes or trekking type and comfortable cotton clothing or the ones made in professional style for hiking, all this to avoid the heat and refract the sun. To go to the Royal Tombs you will have to climb a bit further;   even if you choose the stone steps leading to the top; this is something a little difficult sometimes and don't forget the original Roman road which is almost imposible to walk with inappropriate footwear or sandals.
The sun burns in Petra, especially in the Lower City, so it should always be fitted with caps for the head, sunscreen, sunglasses and bottled water.

Where to eat in Petra:
You can have lunch in the Petra Archaeological Park and there are two options for this: a few steps just beyond the Palace of Pharaoh's daughter and almost inside the mountain, on the left, is a restaurant that for a fixed price of less 20 dinars allows nutritious menu buffet and sweets of the region. The other option is managed by one of the chain hotels in the area and is a little more fashion. Prices a little above than the previous one.

Where to Stay:
I was lucky enough to stay at the Movenpick Resort Petra. The advantage, in addition to comfortable accommodations, excellent cuisine and an air Moorish decor inside, is that it is across the street from the entrance to the Petra Visitor Center.
In the main street of Wadi Musa where the hotel is located, there are also nice restaurants if you do not have dinner at the hotel and souvenir shops with good crafts and jewelry with stones typical of the region.
As I always say, for all budgets.

You can read my opinion of the hotel and others, as always, on the Trip Advisor page. Link to the article:
http://www.tripadvisor.es/ShowUserReviews-g318895-d603281-r143653224-Moevenpick_Resort_Petra-Petra_Wadi_Musa_Ma_in_Governorate.html#CHECK_RATES_CONT

Where to buy:
At the entrance to the Visitor Center, you can find little shops are for buying any kind of souvenirs.
Within the park there are different options of Petra crafts, especially in stones like turquoise, lapizlasuli and coral. There are good and there are imitations, but the quality is easy to recognize. There are good Jordanian silver earrings and tea sets and bronze pieces. The tends of crafts are in the Lower Town, passing the Theatre.
Once back in the city, one block from the Hotel Movenpick Resort Petra, I recommend visiting a souvenir shop, "Aretas Bazaar" (Petra 71810 - Email: aretasbazaar@yahoo.com); they have goods things and you can arrange a better price if you buy at least 2 pieces.

Currency:
On April 2012, a dinars was a little more expensive than the dollar: 0.70 dinar = 1 dollar. Currently the euro has a very fluctuating price and may not agree to the change. At the time of making payments, the dinars and the dollars run almost at par, the euro is often not accepted everywhere.

Useful Links:
The website is in English, but I recommend a visit for the amount of information it provides: http://www.visitpetra.jo/Petra/AboutPetra.aspx # all



Petra Trip details:
Travel date: April 2012
Travel Agent: Marcos Tours - Urquiza 1363 - (2146) San Genaro - Santa Fe Province - Argentina - tel: 54-3401-449400
National Wholesaler: Mahal Tour Operator. Tel: 54-341-4247350
Local Operator: Zaid Travel & Tours PO Box 5443 - 11183 Amman. Fax: 962-6-592-2305 / 962-6-462-5197 / 962-6-463-7827